Wednesday, June 24, 2009

The Rangeley Guide

My last blog opened a new aspect of my goal. I may have strayed by telling stories but all of these and more are just part of the land of fishing legends. I still want to share the current fishing general info, flies and patterns and the general knowledge of the Kennebago and Rangeley area but I think the stories add some of the color and style of gem of the western mountains of Maine. I realize I mentioned the Maine guide but neglected to explain what he/she is, yes we have lady guides also, what they do and how they became a legend of the Maine.
The Registered Maine Guide is known by most sportsmen and many names, but the first, the start of the legend is the Rangeley guide. These “mountain men” were the first guides. Showing “sports” from Boston, New York and other cities “from away”, what it was like to be a true outdoorsman. The spirits of Herbie Welch, "Flyrod" Crosby and Joe Stickney along with a host of others live on in the traditions and legends of the Rangeley Lakes guide.
Many years ago, my grandfather spent long hours introducing me to the various lakes, ponds and streams that abound the legendary Rangeley Lakes and Kennebago region of Maine. I learned to backpack on the smuggler's trail down along the Kennebago river, dip springtime smelts at Indian Rock, cast a Mickey Finn at the Rangeley footbridge and take careful aim at the Green farm on route 16. He took great pride in sharing his domain. It truly was his domain, for he was a guide, a Registered Maine Guide, a Rangeley Guide and a Kennebago guide, All different names for The Maine Guide. Showing the "sports" this land of fishing legends was his livelihood. He spent a lifetime perfecting his skill and took great pride in his work. Yet his most important achievement was not for the "sports" but that he taught me what it meant to be a Registered Maine guide, a Rangeley guide, what it stood for and above all the tradition for which he had selected me to uphold. Having taught my father and now me, he was following the legacy and tradition of his father. As a young guide, I developed the skills, knowledge and abilities to be a reputable guide. I can take my "sports", in search of the landlock salmon or a speckled “square tail” brook trout on the Rangeley lakes, find a trophy buck somewhere near the Nile Farm. or pole a canoe thru the waters on the Kennebago river. Hunting, fishing or canoeing, whatever a “sport” desires for an outdoor experience and excitement is my job description. I have shared this spirit of abilities, skills and techniques proudly for 25+ years at most of the “sporting” lodges in the area. I have never left a " sport " stranded or compromised the fish and game laws, my reputation as a guide is far too important to me to place it in jeopardy. I have never nor will I ever tarnish the image and reputation of the Maine Guide. I respect my guide's patch and wear it proudly.
There are four generations of guides in my family. We are proud of who and what we are, taking the legacy of the Rangeley Guide and our profession very seriously. I have hopes of continuing the tradition into the next generation by sharing my trade and love of the outdoors with my sons and grandsons. Only time will answer that question.
But my world is rapidly falling; the guide I was taught to be and have always honored is rapidly going the way of the dinosaur and the Edsel. Technology, computers and the fast paced culture are replacing the guide and his way of life. A Registered Maine guide has always been an honest, carefree yet fiercely independent sort who does his best to open the outdoors to the sportsmen of the world. His pride in a heritage in doing what comes natural to him and only wants to share it.
The Registered Maine guide has changed a little. They have become a true specialist in all aspects of outdoor lore. All of these "specialties" that have always been part of the traditional Maine guide are changing also. canoes have become kayaks , the GPS chased the compass and map into old age and the log cabin and tent has become an RV. Yet the "sports” still expect the old ways from a Rangeley Guide. The Rangeley guide’s heritage and ideals as a Maine guide has become trendy and modern. Our way of life, profession, the legend still lives on in myself and others like me who still carry the legend forward.
Hiring a guide can only enhance your experience in the Rangeley area. Let a true professional show you what generations of sportsmen have discovered. Sharing a campfire and the wood smoke or feeling the wind as a Rangeley boat floats thru the water, this is a profession of honor and dedication let them show you what the real Rangeley and Kennebago has to offer.
Now you know a little history of the Rangeley area, its people and its fame, stop by and visit, you will enjoy its hospitality and adventures. And don’t forget the fishing, its great anytime. Joe

Monday, June 22, 2009

Tales from Kennebago

I have something different for bloggers today. To day I want to share with you an actual tale or story. I’ll let you decide. But this actually happened. I was there and was a small part of it. It is an interesting tale and I have tried to tell it as accurate as possible. In keeping with info and stories of the Kennebago and Rangeley as I promised I thought maybe a few true stories would be nice.
Many of our legends of the Rangeley and Kennebago area are not fish but the people involved. I have met most of these “legends” and am a better man for it. To me our greatest legend was an old man named “Skeet” Davenport. I have always known him as Skeet and never really knew his given name. He was the center point of most debates and involved in just about everything. Rangeley had a real mayor and then there was Skeet Davenport the un-official mayor. If you had a question on anything you usually went to Skeet who owned a store in town. And you would get the “corrected” version and answer. He was one of the original guides at Grant’s on the big Lake and helped build parts of the camps too. A Rangeley guide by trade he had been a guide for as long as I wanted to recall.
I have known him since he used to bounce me on his knee, change my three cornered pants and tell me stories of old Rangeley, guides, smugglers, sporting camps and all sorts of rugged adventure.
So here goes believe it or not but it is true and a lesson in Rangeley humor and Kennebago style. I hope you enjoy it
Skeet stopped on the bridge to check out the water and make his choices. With a quick wave to me, he crunched the gearshift into reverse. His truck snapped to attention. With considerable coaxing, it crept down the dirt path leading to a rocky spit of land used as a canoe dock. Twenty feet of gravel and a few clumps of wild grass slid by and the truck nestled itself on a rock. This was not a small rock but an anchor sized rock. Skeet fumbled with the truck door and finally flings it open. Tapping his pipe on the handle, he steps out. Adorned in his essential green felt hat, jeans that had seen many days since purchase, a jacket of unknown origin and his relic Bean boots. Amongst the woodslore of his mind, he tried to figure where that cussed rock came from. He had backed down this landing for years on end and never discovered that rock before. He mumbles something about “flatlanders “, stopping at nothing to aggravate him and his personal opinion of rock placement by mother nature. He fretted and pondered the situation and after a prolonged internal debate, decided to leave the truck right where it is. It certainly was not going anywhere soon. Rummaging around behind the seat, he pops back in to view with a bamboo fly rod and an ancient Pfleuger reel. The rod is strung for fishing with a life-size Grey ghost minnow tied at the tip of an almost non-existent leader. With caution to the four winds and common sense being lost to fishing fever, this is where I greet Skeet exchanging tall tales, and assorted lies. We have fished this river many mornings in the past. And this morning just seemed right for fishing. Everything was in our favor. My goal for the morning was to battle a respectable size trout into submission, release him and set about the task once again. Skeet’s favorite recreation involved matching wits with the landlocked salmon. Sometimes he would win and others he would rather not chat about. We had tag teamed this river many trips before and no exceptions on this day. With considerable thrashing and crashing, Skeet maneuvered his line across the river with the fly still in residence. He was a fly fisherman of the finest kind but given an audience of non-locals, the actor in his being allows him to exhibit all the finesse of a frog on roller skates. And he dearly loves every minute of his one-man show for the “sports”. During the intermission of the first and second acts, I had managed to drown a Black ghost up stream of him. As these streamer flies waffled their wakes in the water, the devious gods of fishing joined in the game. Skeet's rod stiffened up and started to whine. I turned, looking at this sight, just as my rod doubled up and jumped with life. Skeet had a “keeper” on and so did I.
With all this commotion and antics, a respectable gathering of other fishermen on the bridge, had stopped to watch this comedy from start to end. Most of them would have made LL Bean proud; they appeared to have just strolled off the color pages of the latest fishing catalog. My! They were a sight to behold. Their catching ability may have been in question but they certainly resemble the “sports”. After several minutes of gyrations and words of questionable origin, we landed our trophies. Skeet, true to form, had bested a 3 + pound salmon and I had managed to land a nice 2 pound trout.
After the awe and wonder wore off, We tossed our lines out again. A few casts past before Skeet and I did it again. The second act began with two nice fish, battling tail and fin against us. We wrestled these two to the land and sure enough I had another trout and Skeet had a fairly respectable salmon. Of course this garnered a round of applause from the bridge. With these two beached, measured and sent on their watery way, Skeet decided to test his skill with a trout and I am always in the mood to out salmon a salmon. So we settled on trading flies. This made perfect sense to us, having done so times past. Our gallery of “professional” LL Bean fishermen reflected our common sense had gone downstream. Skeet muttered something about them being too pretty to catch anything and the trade was done. One back cast and our lines snaked out in front of us to the river. This went on for a few minutes and some uncomfortable remarks wandered down from the bridge. I think it was about then, Skeet clinched his teeth, bite his cigar in half, flipping his hat into the river and pulling hard on the cork handle, setting the hook on a serious sized fish. Chuckling at his good fortune, I almost forgot that I had a fish on too. We danced and wiggled, finally getting both fish in the net. True to form I had the salmon and Skeet had a right nice Trout. Skeet held up his prize with narration on fishing the Kennebago for the bridge gallery to see and approve of, but it must have been how Skeet said it, more than what he said because our audience turned on us. Throwing pebbles and sticks at us but what we did not know, they had been fishing since afternoon of the day before and hadn’t seen a fin. Here stood 2 locals, obviously out of uniform, nipping on a mysterious concoction called “snake bite” and catching fish big enough for a year’s worth of tall tales. The insult was the releasing of these scaled trophies. Their lack of grasp in the concept that we came to catch not to keep seemed evident. Skeet did mention something about size of bait and too many snakes on the bridge. This developed an intense series of non-flattering remarks. Funny how a few inches of fish and a lack of proper liquid rewards can turn a fisherman from a LLBean centerfold to the front page of Revenge Inc.
Skeet is long gone now and I hope he approves but I just had to share the story with you all, Too many times it is how we dress or what we say can make or break a fishing trip. So I hope you enjoyed my tale of the real Kennebago and one of the characters who made it what it is.
Until next time Keep smiling and fishing it’s these that make life worthwhile,
Rods bent and keep the tips up Joe

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Technology meets Fly fishing

The days of the Bamboo rods and single crank fly reels are still around for the purists of fly fishing. But technology and physics has come a long way and it has found us, the fly fishermen. After breaking BOTh of my LL Bean rods, I went to Beans and they replaced them without question and I thank them for that. They were knowledgeable, courteous and pleasant to deal with. The best thing that happened, was that I had the opportunity to try different rods in the collection at Beans. I tried everything from a 2 pc to a 6 pc, 7.5' to 9'and boron, sage, loomis and all parts in between. I finally settled on a pair of 4 pc rods. I paid the difference and am very happy with my choice. But the interesting aspect of this shopping was all the materials used, how they are put together and so forth. You can actually pick the blank you want, style, type and color of eyelets, where they are spaced and whatever you want is available. These are only the basics of choice, you can spend hours just selecting what you want and it will be created for you. Then you can decide if you want to use it for Bass, trout, pan fish or salt water. It is really amazing how far we have come from alder sticks and grocery store string.Technology has given us so many choices. Then add in the actual physics of how all these components work together and you can have quite a time making your choices.
When I was a teenager I had a rod made for me. It was a gift to me for doing some work for an elderly fellow in Weld. He only asked me where I fished and how good I was at it. He custom crafted a rod for me that has stood me well all these years. It ia absolutely beautiful, 8'5 ' fugi eyelets, in a color I like and complete with an extra tip and cloth case.Each of his rods came with an extra tip. He never asked me about weights, lengths or anything. He made all those choices from what he asked me. It is signed by the crafter and my name on the case. Now you cant beat that anyway you look. This man has since passed on to the the great flyfisherman's reward, but his name was Newt Masterman. He is/was a local legand in rod crafting. He made rods that lasted and caught some serious fish. He was always available for advice on how, what where etc on rods. He did not make many, maybe 2 or 3 a year but they are classics. If by some chance you have a Masterman rod, you has a jewel and a classic in the Maine fishing world.Anyone in the area who fished a lot had one. They are not well known but still classics in their own world. Mine has since been passed one to another fisherman, but I still miss that rod. And oh! the stories that rod could tell. The world can move on to bigger and better things. Technology and physics can meet and create the world's greatest but for me I will stick with the basics. I firmly believe that it is the fisherman not the rod and reel that make things happen. If anyone has a Masterman that is for sale let me know I want to get a pair for the grandsons.
Enough said about rods, technology and physics of fly fishing I am sure that each of you have a favorite with a nice combination of choices and has made an excellent selection. But I thought that maybe it was time that I mention some of the technical stuff of fly fishing. Once in awhile I get brainy but most of the time I am in it for the fun. If I go too far it will take all the fun out of chasing trout and salmon so I will return to what i know best---- Rangeley, Kennebago and catching fish Until later see you on the water, I'll be the one on the slippery rock Joe

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Mother Nature's gifts

Mother nature sure made things easy for us. I am a fly tyer by hobby and trade. Not too bad at it if I do say so. I have tied for LL Beans, several small outfitters and sporting goods stores all around Maine who cater to fly fishermen. There are so many different patterns or "knock offs" of original patterns on the market these days. I try to tye with only real materials and original patterns. they still catch some good fish and fishermen keep coming back so I must be doing something right. I use good materials from suppliers who have good products. I do not use local hair, hides or feathers. I might trade for some wood duck on occasion, but not regularly. I do have to mention that over the years prices have soared for materials. I have continued to use Hobbs hackle in Iowa,Hook & Hackle and Metz necks and saddles for most of my stuff. The others seem to keep reaching for the moon on prices. Of course I buy in bulk so I get a little savings but it still is expensive. I can truthfully say that the only man made material I use is the tinsel and the hook. I feel strongly that the originals were designed for a reason. Carrie Stevens, Joe Stickney and Doc Edson would be amazed at what is on the market today.When it comes to natural materials I have found that one of Mother nature's real gifts to fly tyers is the availability and styles of materials. My favorite material has to be the CDC feathers. These little feathers are an answer to a tyers prayer. They can be bent, folded, stretched and anything else in between.They make wonderful wings for emergers and great trailing husks for top water flies. If you have not tried tying with these feathers, you are missing something special. I make a really nice emerger from CDC feathers. It works and works and works some more. It has not failed me yet. If any of you out there who want a good pattern for emergers or mayflies ,let me know i will gladly give you my patterns. Every fisherman has tried to tye his own but for some reason they never seem to be right. I had a dealer tell me once that the "buggier" the fly looked the better it worked. Well, I guess we all have our preferences.
I spent most of today tying emergers cause I am headed to the Kennebago tomorrow for a little "field testing". My next entry will cover how I did. I am never "skunked" but some days are better than others. I maybe a snob when It comes to fishing the Kennebago, But I truly love this water shed. It has given up some nice fish and there are always more to play with. I have fished the Rangeley area for 50 years and guided it for 40. It is really the land of fishing legends. The Rangeley "square tails" of legend and as the ole' timers call them are still there and there are some of serious weight too. I have snapped off many a 2lb tippet on fish. I know it is silly to use that light stuff but you have to admit it is still fun to fight one on his terms.
One quick note to fishermen out there I tye for the fun and I have a habit of giving away my flies to fellow fishermen. Yes there still is something free in this world. I am not going to fill your fly box for you but i will gladly "donate" some flies to it so you can have some fun. I would like a note or a picture of beauty you catch though.
Well folks this is about it for today. I still have to pack my gear and gas up the truck and then it is off to kennebago. If you are ever in the area and see a 6' 3" dude in a stetson and a van dyke beard, that would be me "KENNEBAGO JOE" I am pretty well known in the area and am always willing to share the pool or rips and will most likely give you the fly I am using . So keep the rod bent, tip up and be safe Joe

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Here I go again

After spending a considerable time unpacking and replenishing the camper and self, I can start with the experiences of the week up country. It was a good week except that I broke the tips off 2 LL Bean rods, snapped my new polarized sunglasses into 2 pieces and awaking to and 1/2 inch of snow on the First of June, snow is NOT a good thing at this time of year. But now warmer weather has landed, the 2 rods have been replaced along with the glasses so now I am ready to head off again. It probably wont be for a few days. I have been asked to tye up some of the little green monsters we caught fish on. I am glad to do it and hope they are as lucky as we were. I just have to find the time.
I cant say enough about customer service at Bean's. They were great and very helpful. No questions asked, of course i had to add the fish story that went along with the tips breaking along with a picture. Maybe that was what turned the tide.
I do have something to say about the wind power project on Kibby Mt near Eustis. These guys have no idea what they are doing to the environment. I realize they are there to do a job but at least have a little respect for those who live there and use this area for work. I guess the future is totally up on us but this area of Maine is one of the last wilderness areas where deer, moose, rabbits and wild trout and land lock salmon abound. Maybe a little consideration might be in order. So enough of the soap box. I am not a political person but somethings just have to be mentioned.

This the best pattern I know of and tye myself. It works

I have not heard much from the Rangeley area in the last few days but i would figure it is about time to consider Blue wing olives and maybe even a green drake or two. There is a small but furious drake hatch at the north end of Little Kennebago. The locals know of it but seem to ignore it, but if anyone has ever sat in the middle of a good hatch with the right fly, trust me it is a fun way beyond anything you have ever seen. So until I get thru the "Honey Do List" from the wife I will have to just tye flies and sneak off when I can. I still have many stories and guides calling me with new adventures so you should be entertained Be safe J

Monday, June 8, 2009

its Kennebago Joe returning from “up country”

I took another week to do some "field testing".The week is up and I am back from the Kennebago. I spent the first night in my camper at 4 corners and awoke to snow everywhere and cold. That bothered me a little but the fish seemed to like it. Breakfast was fried potatoes and 2 12″ brookies, not bad for a start. I headed over to Tea Pond camps where I stayed the week. Fish were everywhere and nice ones too. I saw 19 and 20″ salmon, anything from 6″ to 20″ brookies and this was just on the river. I didn’t even bother to get into the lake, we were having too much fun on the river. Of course we caught at least a thousand 2″ and 4″ Salmon parr, but they are still fun and each one thinks he is Moby dick. Tea pond gave up some nice action usually right before breakfast and right after supper. Diane and Noel were ready with willing info as always.
It seems that caddis flies no matter what size or color would take a fish and of all things a size 16 Adams was a real big hit. Black Ghost marabou was the salmon special for the week. The usual tri’s and mayflies were everywhere and several standard emerger patterns took serious hits, but the real surprise was a little wet fly that I am sure does not even have a name. It is just olive green antron with a couple of twists of peacock at the head and a sprig of antron for a wing. It didn’t matter if it was dry, wet or even in between. it took fish and these were definitely “net” fish that would land you in serious trouble if you had a 2lb tippet.

All in all it was a great trip. Good relaxing time, good fishing, met some new folks on the river. I did see a novice fisherman take a 20″ brookie on a red trude. I dont know who was more surprized him or the fish. I am going back later in the month for at least a weekend and the passenger seat is always available. I would love to show any of you “MY” kennebago. The road in from the Rangeley side is still your best bet, the Eustis side is swamped with Cianbro and all sorts of construction stuff cause of the wind mill project up on Kibby mt. I stayed at Tea Pond camps so I had to use the Eustis side of the Lincoln Pond road but it was worth it in the long run.

Well gang that is the short story of my week. It was fun, lots of fish and great times were had by all. I did manage to break the tips on both LL Bean rods on fish but I took them to Beans and the gladly replaced them so it back to fishing again. Those folks at customer service are really nice and helpful. Not easily found in this modern day of fast paced everything.

More in a few days but for now I need to get unpacked and tie up some little green “monsters” as we called them. I have more great more stories about King and Bartlett and Spencer stream area too. Long lost to the public but new roads pop up every day. The ole’ Dodge can go almost anywhere.

Keep a bend in the rod and tight lines until next time,

First Blog

–The week is now over and believe it or not I did get a chance to go fishing! Of course it was on the Kennebago river.

I spent an hour or so going through the fly box trying to find something that would work, when all of a sudden My fishing partner Jim hit on a wonder of all wonders. He started taking very reasonable fish on a size 16 elk hair caddis. Here we are in the middle of beautiful salmon water, and of all the fixin’s to do battle with he takes fish on a self tyed caddis.
Luck on dry flies during spring fishing concerns me, but then again I have taken fish during snow storms.
Regardless, these dries really worked. He caught at least 8 or 9 fish, and nice ones too! They took it with gusto. We had a blast wrestling with foot long trout, and not a black fly in sight. It was a little windy and chilly but still fun.

Elk Hair Caddis

Elk Hair Caddis

You probably wont find me fishing without my best friend Jim, between us we can handle any water and any conditions. Speaking of conditions, the complexion of the river has changed some from ice out, a few new scours and few more rips, as well as several really nice places to work streamers and nymphs. I would not try a dropper fly in these waters, as you are apt to catch one on each and then you have trouble.Voice of experience here.

The road from the Rangeley side is a better road to the bridge, the Eustis side is rough but passable. Any rain and it will be 4X4 all the way. The hatches should start this week. BWO are starting and the caddis will be in shortly. A mahogany caddis works really well late evening and an emerger of the same color will cover the rest of the day. Don’t pass up any water cause the trout tend to be in quieter places on the river.

I stopped in to see Diane at Tea pond camps, and she is still scratching her head because a 10 year old kid picked up a 22″ salmon right off the dock the night before on a bobber. Now that is not something you hear about every day. But she said the fishing has been great and fast too. Noel was busy cutting wood so I didn’t get a chance to talk with him, but I trust Diane’s word. Don’t let her good looks deceive you, she knows her stuff and is free to pass along any info!

I am headed in to camp the first week of June, so anyone who has the time let me know. There is always room for one more. There is always an extra sleeping bag and enough food for a small village so come on up. Liquid refreshments are served at about 7 and the camp fire is about 8:30. There are NO openings at the camps but there is always the couch in the Main lodge. Guides are available (me) and I would expect a serious amount of fish will meet us at the dock too. Call the camps for local and immediate fishing info. Jim will even tye some “special” flies just for Tea pond. They have worked so far, so have faith brothers. Anywhere there is water there has got to be fish!

-J